Drums are a total instrument. I learned that from
Elvin Jones. The kit is one instrument, not a bunch of disparate parts all stuck together. This includes those things we use to hit things: the sticks. How many times have I been handed a pair of sticks in a drum shop or by a well-meaning drummer that look like a couple of shredded wheat-bix? "You want me to play with these?" I think. It's like putting on a pair of shoes two sizes too small. For too many drummers the sticks are an after-thought. But, how much incomprehensible frustration and uncomfortable playing has been caused by the wrong choice of sticks? "Is it just me?" some ask. Maybe. But it just might be your sticks that are holding you back padawan.
There are a number of aspects to consider when choosing this element of our instrument.
First, the materials. Wood is still the most common and most popular material used for the sticks. There are some exotic synthetics available now, including
carbon fibre and composites like sta-pac®. Yet, simple woods still dominate. There are reasons for this that transcend marketing. Wood has vibrational and aesthetic properties that no science lab has yet been able to duplicate. Wood is an orthotropic material with three mutually perpendicular axises: longitudinal, radial and tangential. What does this mean? Due to its cellular structure, wood is adaptive, resilient, and easily formed yet strong. Different types of wood possess sound qualities that make them ideal for musical instruments of different kinds. Wood has yet to be bested. (For those interested in the science see
here for more).
The two major types of wood used for sticks are hickory and maple;
oak and persimmon are also used but are less common. All of these possess qualities that create distinctive sonics.*
Of the two common types, maple is the less dense, softer and lighter wood. The cellular structure is larger, and because of this the vibrational qualities create warmer, deeper sounds on cymbals and drums. Sound travels slower through maple, and as such the waves are larger and thus lower than hickory. Don't take this as some kind of absolute scientific fact, but I tested both a maple and hickory stick on a ride cymbal using a spectrogram and the response of the cymbal was 1KHz lower than the hickory stick (both with tear-drop tips). The perception is that the maple sticks creates lower volumes, but the difference is actually the frequency, which requires higher volumes to be heard. "Warm" is the metaphor used when describing the frequencies of maple.
In terms of comfort, maple has some advantages over hickory, let alone oak. In the hand maple warms faster than the denser hickory. The vibrational aspect is lower, as mentioned before, and because of this the dissipation of energy is less intense; maple has a built-in dampening quality. The
feeling of burning often experienced by those who grip the stick is less affective.
The transient response of the two types of wood varies. Some of this depends not just on the wood, but the form, diameter, type of tip on the stick and the skill or hand-technique of the player. But generally speaking, because of the cellular structure, maple tends to have a slower response, that is, a slower return after striking. Hickory is comparably stiffer, and as such has a slightly quicker return. I am not sure what the exact differences are mathematically, but in my experience this is a distinguishing quality between the two types of wood.
Second, the form. There are six facets to every stick: the butt, the shaft, the shoulder, the taper, the tip and the over-all length.** Each of these plays a role in the dynamics, sound qualities, transient response and relational comfort of the stick. I choose a butt and shaft size that fits my hand, and in my case it is a larger .595"/1.51 cm up to a .610"/1.55 cm diameter and a generally longer stick. I
buy Vic Firth*** sticks, and the two models that I have found to work for me are the
AJ1 (16"/ 40.64 cm L) and the
SD10 (16 1/8" / 40.96 cm L). Although these designs have a large butt and shaft, they both have tapers that are quite long, providing a response that is fast and easy.
The tips on both models are the acorn or tear-drop type. Compared to other shapes, this one seems to provide the most contact with the surface of the cymbal and the drum head leading to greater spread, texture and volume. Other tips have different properties, like a more focused sound, that is very specific and contained, sharp. Others, such as barrel or round, may provide a quicker response.
Besides the models I mentioned above, I also keep a few standard 5B's and the smaller and lighter
AJ6 around for different playing situations. The four models seem to cover any playing situation I might find myself in, and they each have different dynamics that I like. Out of the four only the
SD10 is maple. I do have a couple of pairs of some maple sticks from Canada called Headhunters. They are hard to find in stores, but if you come across them, try them out.
Having said all this, there are some players that seem to defy the apparent physics of the stick. I have a pair of
Thomas Lang sticks that I bought out of curiosity, as they are some of the heaviest and largest tipped sticks I have ever seen played by a pop-jazz player.
Lang plays highly technical, subtle and fast jazz with these monsters (.650" / 1.65 cm D). Lang created a stick that fits his abilities and needs. His effortless attack seems to speak to the way in which a highly refined hand-technique precedes the design of a stick. More on this aspect of physics in a later post.
Some Advice
When deciding on a stick, I suggest starting with some of the base-line or standard models that have stood the test of time: 7A, SD4, 85A, 5A, 5B, and the 2B. These designs are good starting markers, like guiding stars, within the ever growing constellation of stick designs. They are standard sizes among all the manufacturers as well, although there are slight differences between each version. Between these models are all the variations and exotic design spin-offs with non-standard names like "Manhattan Jazz" that can overwhelm the padawan drummer. Once you know where you are it is easier to sail out into the wilds.
Find a drum store where the staff will let you have some fun trying out a variety of sticks on pads and on a drum-kit. The better shops are staffed with guys who will not frown on this.
Have fun.
*I am not going to talk about nylon tipped sticks. They possess their own qualities that some drummers find helpful. I used them on a few occasions, but found them awkward and have not used them since.
** Who came up with the anthropomorphic descriptions? Presumably, some guy going through Freudian therapy.
***By the way, I am not a Vic Firth endorser, and this is not an ad. I have tried many stick brands over the years, and have just landed on Vic's after trying to find the right fit for me. There are a number of great stick manufacturers out there. What I am writing here is due to a long process of elimination over 25 years of playing.